Toxic Chemicals in Braiding Hair and Cosmetics: What You Need to Know

“Lotion doesn't get enough attention, but it has a lot of preservatives and often it's the preservatives that give it a longer shelf life,” Elissia Franklin told Explain It to Me host Jonquilyn Hill.

For years, braids have been a go-to hairstyle for many—from Brandy-style box braids in elementary school to Alicia Keys-inspired cornrows in middle school. Even now, vacations often include a head full of boho braids. Braids seemed like a healthier alternative to chemical straighteners, avoiding scalp burns and harsh odors. But a recent study by the Silent Spring Institute—which researches environmental causes of breast cancer—raised concerns about the safety of braiding hair.

Why Braiding Hair May Pose Health Risks

Elissia Franklin, a chemist and exposure scientist at the Institute, decided to investigate the chemicals in braiding hair after noticing a troubling pattern in her colleagues’ work. “They were helping study participants swap out their couches because they wanted to reduce flame-retardant chemicals in the indoor dust in the homes,” she explained. “Anytime I bought my braiding hair, it said flame-resistant. It just dawned on me: If they’re trying to get rid of flame retardants from couches, why can we so intimately use these products in our everyday lives?”

Franklin tested 43 hair extension products and found chemicals linked to cancer, birth defects, and reproductive harm, including:

• Flame retardants
• Organotin compounds
• Phthalates

These chemicals aren’t limited to hair extensions—they’re found in many other cosmetics as well.

Cosmetics Aren’t Just a Women’s Health Issue

“Sometimes people just see this as a women’s health issue,” said Ami Zota, a professor of environmental health studies at Columbia University. “Everyone uses some kind of cosmetics, whether it’s soap or lotion or toothpaste.”

So how can consumers navigate these everyday products? Zota and Franklin discuss the issue in the latest episode of Explain It to Me, Vox’s weekly call-in podcast. The full episode, including more insights from experts, is available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and other platforms.

To submit a question, email [email protected] or call 1-800-618-8545.

How U.S. Cosmetic Regulations Fail Consumers

Cosmetic regulation in the U.S. is largely industry-driven and mostly voluntary. The FDA provides minimal oversight and funding, making it difficult to enforce existing regulations. Most testing focuses on immediate reactions like eczema or skin rashes, rather than long-term risks such as cancer or infertility.

“The system of regulation is less effective at gauging long-term risk, like those that may lead to cancer or difficulty in getting pregnant.”